An Expatriate in Taiwan » Taiwanese Food

A look at Taiwanese citrus fruits

The Expatriate — Mon, 24 Jan 2011 16:48:12 +0000

I’m a big fan of Vitamin C and citrus fruits in general. It’s now that time of year that oranges are being harvested. You can hardly drive down the road without seeing one field or another being depleted of its nutritious stock, piled high on the side of the road, and left naked and alone to bear out the remaining cold of the winter with nought but a few leaves to accompany it until the Summer shall once again bear down upon it and bring forth new fruit next winter.

Mrs. Expat and I, indeed, stopped by the side of the road where such harvesting was going on and, being the curious type, ended up buying approximately 40kg of 柳丁 (liǔdīng). These were small, hard to peel, but juicy and sweet. We ended up giving a lot away to friends since we had simply so much of them (We still have some!), but have relegated the rest to juicing as they are simply too hard to peel and not worth the effort. Much better to cut them up and squeeze them for an early morning jolt of fructose.

Most Taiwanese will tell you that 柳丁 (liǔdīng) are “tangerines.” However, this differed from what I knew about oranges and tangerines. This got me thinking about the differences and I simply had to investigate this further.

According to Wikipedia,

The tangerine (Citrus × tangerina) is an orange-coloured citrus fruit which is a variety of the Mandarin orange (Citrus reticulata). Tangerines are smaller than most oranges, and are usually much easier to peel and to split into segments. The taste is often less sour, or tart, than that of an orange.

Armed with this knowledge, I headed off to the fruit market to do some research. Here is what I came home with:

From left to right (and largest to smallest) I have: 美人柑 (měiréngān), 樋柑 (tōnggān), 海梨 (hǎilí), 茂谷 (màogǔ), 橘子 (júzì), and 柳丁 (liǔdīng).

I decided I would take each of these in turn and take some notes to talk about the experience of each, and write down some benefits and disadvantages.

First up was the 美人柑 (měiréngān).

It peeled very easily, the rind coming off in large chunks. There were no seeds and it was very sweet. It is characterized by the large “nipple” on top and is very juicy. It cost approximately NT$20 for one. I believe these are what Americans would refer to as “tangerines.”

Next up were the 樋柑 (tōnggān) and 海梨 (hǎilí). I somehow forgot to take pictures of the latter, but it’s alright because both were very similar.

You’ll notice that outwardly, they differ in that the 海梨 (hǎilí) is much oranger and also has a nipple, whereas the 樋柑 (tōnggān) is lighter and rounder. Both of these were a bit harder to peel, starting off with small chunks but becoming easier as it went along. The segments of both come apart quite easily, but have some seeds and were much dryer – not nearly as juicy as the 美人柑 (měiréngān). The 海梨 (hǎilí) was NT$17 while the other was NT$19. It would be hard to give an edge to either or to distinguish one from the other. MDBG is not much help as it recognizes neither, but apparently the 樋柑 (tōnggān) would be a type of tangerine (柑 apparently means “large tangerine”) whereas the other would be a type of orange.

Next was the 茂谷 (màogǔ).

This one was characterized by having a very thin rind – much thinner than any of the others. It cost NT$20 and peeled very easily, exposing hard to separate, but soft, juicy segments. There were more seeds in this one than the others – at least one seed in each segment, but it was very sweet. Overall, I rank this one rather highly.

Next came the 橘子 (júzì), which is my absolute favorite.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but this is what Americans would normally call a “mandarin orange.” It’s rather small, but peels extremely easily (the skin nearly falls off) and the segments practically fall apart in your hands. The thin rind gives way to extremely juicy, sweet segments that still carry many thin, white strands of rind. There are seeds in these, at least one per segment, but it’s worth the effort to get through them as these are simply utopia in your mouth. The local fruit stand was having a sale: 10 for NT$30 and the 11th one was free. I bought 10 the first round to try them out and went back to buy 20 more. This is what I’ll be buying from now on.

I hesitate to include the last one, 柳丁 (liǔdīng), because, as stated, it simply can’t compare to the others. However, I did make an attempt to peel and rate it.

As you can see, it can barely be described as “peeling” at all, as in the process I managed to damage the soft segments inside and not make much headway in exposing the fruit after tearing off several tiny chunks of rind. It is, however, very juicy, but also has a lot of seeds. This is why I do not recommend you buy these to eat. If you want to squeeze them for fresh orange juice, however, these are the ones you want.

As I said, most Taiwanese would call these “tangerines,” but they seem much more orange-like to me (given the Wikipedia definition of tangerines). Below I have ranked my favorites in order.

橘子 (júzì) – Mandarin Orange
美人柑 (měiréngān) – A large tangerine?
茂谷 (màogǔ) – Tangerine or orange?

Tied for 3rd and 4th place:

樋柑 (tōnggān) – A type of tangerine?
海梨 (hǎilí) – A type of orange?

As stated, the last one I don’t include with the others as it simply doesn’t stack up.

柳丁 (liǔdīng) – A small orange?

So there you have it. An unofficial guide to Taiwanese oranges and tangerines. I’m sure there are more varieties out there and I would love to hear about them and the differences between oranges and tangerines. MDBG dictionary isn’t being entirely helpful in sorting out which is which according to the Chinese names (which may have some Taiwanese influence), so if anyone could help sort out the differences, I’d appreciate it.

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A look at Taiwanese citrus fruits

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A different type of drink

The Expatriate — Sun, 12 Dec 2010 02:19:19 +0000

In my time in Taiwan, I’ve had the opportunity to try lots of different foods and beverages. My philosophy has always been “try everything twice.” Simply, I think that if you try something once, whether you like it or not, there might be extenuating circumstances. Maybe you are having an exceptionally good/bad day, maybe the cook didn’t something different, maybe… etc. So, I try everything twice. If, after I’ve tried something twice, I still like it or a definitely don’t like it (very rare), I will continue to eat it/not eat it. It has served me fairly well thus far.

One of the weirdest, most outlandish foods I’ve had the opportunity to try here has been Snake Penis Wine.

It’s exactly what it sounds like: snake penises put into a bottle to add flavor to Gaoliang Rice Wine. Jane’s grandfather (阿公/āgōng) had a bottle of this. The bottle on the left is, I think, Snake Gall Bladder Wine or some other such snake organ. I don’t remember trying that one. As for the Snake Penis Wine, it wasn’t bad. If you get over the fact that you are drinking penis-flavored Gaoliang (generally, Gaoliang by itself is bad enough), it’s actually OK. Nothing something I would want to use to celebrate New Year’s, but it was nice to be able to try it.

The Gukeng Coffee Festival

The Expatriate — Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:34:15 +0000

Last weekend, Mrs. Expatriate and I decided to take a trip to the Gukeng Coffee Festival. It’s a small gathering of people selling coffee, food, handicrafts, and other such things. The weather was absolutely gorgeous and there were quite a few people out and about. If you get a chance, I recommend you go.

Our trip started at the Gukeng Honey Museum, which is pretty small, but nice. There are no English signs, so you’ll have to look at the pictures or read Chinese in order to understand. You can also buy a wide variety of bee- and honey-related products, such as honey (Longan flavor, etc), pollen (great in tea or on ice cream), honey Liquor, honey vinegar, and so on. Outside, you can cool down with some honey ice cream, which is simply outstanding.

The Coffee Festival is at the end of a road that starts at the Honey Museum. You can walk down this road, stop for some drinks or food or watch street performers. Finally, you will come to the coffee festival, which is inside a large tent. It’s not just coffee. In fact, overall, there was relatively little coffee compared to the other offerings, but it’s still a great place to visit during this great weather we’re having in Taiwan.

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After we got home, we noticed these white-headed birds eating some fruit in the trees. Can anyone identify them? I’d love to know what kind of bird they are.

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Someone wants us to have kids

The Expatriate — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 09:41:00 +0000

In Taiwan, it is common to eat sweet foods on and after your wedding day. It is thought that eating sweet food will help the newlywed couple have a baby boy. The reason is a Taiwanese proverb:

吃甜甜，生兒子。 (chī tiántián, shēng érzì)

It doesn’t sound as good in Mandarin, but it rhymes in Taiwanese (jia didi, sei haoxi).

What it means is, “Eat sweet food, have a son.” I’m not sure where this proverb comes from or how long its been around. If anyone has any more info about it, drop me a line in the comments.

Anyway, a student’s mother made us some sweet soup to congratulate us on our marriage. It wasn’t bad. Had some weird things in it, but overall it tasted something like fruit cocktail. I should note that you must first heat it up so as to make sure the ingredients and gelatin inside are cooked. Then you serve it with ice or put it in the fridge and eat it cold.

How to use chopsticks

The Expatriate — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 06:11:14 +0000

Being able to use chopsticks is an essential skill when living in Taiwan (or China or Japan or anywhere else in Asia). Most restaurants will have chopsticks and spoons available for use (the spoons being for soup). Rarely will you find forks and knives, unless you go to an American restaurant or steakhouse, etc. Chopsticks are not the easiest utensil to master; fortunately, there are a variety of ways of holding and employing them, so there’s almost no way to get it wrong. Basically, if it works for you, then so be it.

I took the opportunity last week during lunch with some coworkers to make some videos about how they all use chopsticks differently. First up is my method.

Basically, I hold the bottom chopstick between the meaty part of my thumb and my ring finger. The top chopstick goes between my thumb and middle finger. To grab food, I just move my middle finger up and down. I find this to be the easiest for me.

My friend, Summer, has a very different way of holding chopsticks. I cannot, despite my best efforts, use chopsticks this way. She has, however, been doing it this way her entire life and finds my method rather peculiar as well. To each his/her own.

So, she holds the bottom chopstick between her thumb and the top of her ring finger. She then puts the top chopstick in and holds it in place with her middle and pointer finger. Now, what’s different about this is that, instead of spreading the chopsticks apart (like I do), she uses them backwards. The top chopstick goes down, the bottom chopstick goes, up, and she grabs the food in between them.

Another coworker of mine holds her chopsticks very similar to me, but she uses both her middle finger and pointer finger on the top chopstick.

Another coworker, Anna, holds her chopsticks very close together, but her method is otherwise very similar to mine.

I haven’t found too many other variations, although I’m sure there are other ways than just these 4 methods. Do you have a different method? Make a video and post it on youtube and I’ll gladly share it here!

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A day in Taichung

The Expatriate — Mon, 04 May 2009 09:51:17 +0000

Miss Expatriate and I decided to spend the day in Taichung and had quite a bit of fun. For once, we actually did something and I got the photos organized and am blogging about it (I’m usually too busy to put the photos up until months later when it’s too late).

We started off with lunch. Miss Expatriate had heard about a Muslim Restaurant that was getting very good reviews among the locals, so we decided to give it a try. The building was very drab and unassuming. The only giveaways were the green signs hanging out front.

Inside was quite small and packed. This place was definitely very popular with the locals – always a good sign.

The menu for the Muslim Restaurant

A peek into the kitchen

Another peek into the kitchen.

Customers enjoying their dinner

Being a Muslim Restaurant, they served no pork. As it was, they didn’t really serve any Muslim food whatsoever. Rather, they served Taiwanese food with a Muslim twist. Dishes include Beef or Goat soup, beef or goat dumplings, a very popular hotpot (good for larger groups), and a variety of sides. Miss Expatriate and I opted for the Goat soup, goat dumplings, and a side of beef, including cow’s stomach.

It was nice to have a seat near the kitchen where we could watch them prepare the dishes. They also made several hotpots, which are very popular. Next time, I’m definitely going to try one. Outside, you can see them prepare the hotpots and coals.

The outer part of the kitchen

A view from the street

If you’re going…

Business card for the Muslim Restaurant

After lunch, we headed off to the Jade Market (玉市 / yùshì), also a very popular attraction. We’ve gone several times before, but it’s always nice to wander around and talk to the locals and see what they’re selling.

The place is huge... this picture does it no justice

You can find almost anything here – jewelry, beads, tea supplies, statues, geodes, antiques – you name it. The variety is endless.

Small collections of decorative beads

Necklaces are popular

A guzheng sits in front of a painting

Small, decorate tables. I believe they're used for Ancestor's Worship tables

Tea trays

Many varieties of teapots can be found.

Several different types of tea, sold in discs.

The tea master must have been off on a break. This one is quite friendly and always says hello to me.

Large decorative stones

Turtle shells are popular - meant to bring good luck, I believe

These two sellers were engaged in several games of Chinese chess.

A large, decorative geode. These are quite popular.

Various beads for necklaces and bracelets

More beads

Old Chinese coins

Various types of money - he has money from several countries, including some very valuable gold and silver coins

Large statues

small statues

One of the many stores in the Jade Market

If you get hungry at the Jade Market, you can have a snack

If you’re going…

One of the helpful ladies at the Jade Market information desk.

Another helpful lady at the Jade Market information desk.

After that, we headed off to the Shinkong Mitsukoshi Department Store to do some window shopping (Why do Citizen and Seiko watches cost 3x as much as they do in America?) and watch X-Men Origins: Wolverine, which was quite good. If you go, I highly suggest you watch it in the digital theater for the best audio-visual experience.

Free Fresh Fruit!

The Expatriate — Sat, 20 Dec 2008 03:04:32 +0000

No matter where you go in Taiwan, you can be assured there will be a large stock of locally grown, fresh fruit available. Much of this fruit is similar to the Western World: apples, bananas, oranges, etc. Much of it, however, is also very eastern: Bell Fruit, Passion Fruit (and other tropical fruits), Dragon Fruit, Lychees, Dragon Eyes, etc.

Oftentimes, much of this fruit is grown natural and wild. Natural, wild bananas, for example, are very short and fat and filled with seeds, not long and thin like modern bananas you buy at Walmart. In Taiwan, fortunately, they’ve also taken out the seeds.

Everywhere you go, people here are intensely proud of their produce. I’m sitting here at a Buxiban (cram school) in Taipei, waiting for Miss Expatriate’s class to end. Some older woman, who is apparently a student, just passed by and started up the stairs. She thought better of it, turned around, gave me 2 bell fruit from her bag, asked a few questions (Where are you from? etc) and then ran off to class. Wonderful.

The other night, Miss Expatriate and I were enjoying a simple meal of Turkey Rice at one of our favorite local restaurants. The owner came around and gave us each a free banana. Apparently, his father had grown too many (is that possible?) and they were giving the rest away. It was wonderful.

It is also not uncommon for us to get occasional gifts of fresh fruit and other things. Miss Expatriate’s father, being a doctor and owning a small general practice clinic, often gets gifts of fruit and other items from his patients. It really gives Taiwan a sort of “small town friendliness” feel wherever you go.

Bell Fruit:

Passion Fruit:

Dragon Fruit:

Lychees:

Dragon Eyes/Longan:

Random kindness

Taiwanese Winter dessert

The Expatriate — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 14:40:13 +0000

Many foods in Taiwan are seasonal. That is, you can only get them during a certain time of year. One of my favorites is only available during the winter months: 燒仙草 (shāoxiāncǎo). Literally, Hot Immortal Grass. In English, it’s commonly known as Hot Grass Jelly.

This is one of those foods that just looks so wrong; it looks like it shouldn’t be good; it looks like there’s no way it can taste good at all. Somehow, though, it works, and remarkably well at that.

At first, it looks just like a cup of hot, black jello.

燒仙草 shāoxiāncǎo

After digging into it, however, you discover all sorts of “treasures” inside: taro, red beans, mung beans, and other little “treats.”

燒仙草 shāoxiāncǎo

Actually, my favorite version is called 布丁燒 (bùdīngshāo) and is basically the same thing, just with an egg pudding dropped into the bottom which is then mixed up (Hence the “bùdīng” which is Chinese for “pudding.” I’ll get pictures of one of those later. Regardless, both are delicious winter treats that are very popular in Taiwan.

Thanksgiving Dinner

The Expatriate — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 14:57:10 +0000

Well, it was a pretty uneventful Thanksgiving, as Thanksgiving is wont to be in Taiwan. It isn’t particularly celebrated, although the Taiwanese do have a name for it: 感恩节 (gǎnēnjié).

If you have been reading the Taipei Times, you may know that the Kaohsiung Ambassador Hotel, in the spirit of Thanksgiving, was holding an American Food Festival. Here’s the clipping from the paper:

Taipei Times - American Food Festival ad

We managed to convince Miss Expatriate’s parents to try it out. It was quite expensive at about NT$650/person for the buffet (A little more than US$22), but there was a nice selection. It wasn’t particularly American. There was turkey and roast beef. There was also pumpkin pie. The rest, however, seemed oddly normal. Steamed shrimp, Sushi/sushi rolls, Italian noodles, french deserts, etc etc. All in all, it was way too expensive for quite mediocre food.

It was, however, festive. The hotel was quite patriotic, as you can see from the coasters:

American Food Festival coaster

The waitresses, as you can see in the ad, were also very patriotic. Yes, they really did wear American flag bandannas and red cowboy hats with sheriff stars on them.

American Food Festival waitress

Overall, I wasn’t impressed. The pumpkin pie did, however, more than make up for it. For a few minutes, it almost felt like being home.

GUTS Chocolate Bar

The Expatriate — Mon, 08 Oct 2007 08:56:00 +0000

This is a GUTS chocolate bar. Sounds so appetizing. I’m not sure what it means: does it have guts in it? Does it take guts to eat it? Does it make you feel brave and strong afterwards? I ate it anyway; not bad at all.

Guts Chocolate Bar